Just a moment ..

Muhammad, Sayyah and I were sitting on the top of the biggest well, which is about twenty meters deep, and M. Observed that when he first knew Bair this well was filled in. A party of the Isa had fallen here on the Sukhur and killed a horseman. The Sukhur killed Of the Isa two canel riders. The Isa were thirsting and the Sukhur, before they made off, threw the two dead men and their camels into the well and rolled in a few big stones on top, so that the Isa might not drink and follow them.

My hosts pressed into my service a fellah, a peasant, on their farm , and I engaged as third man an Agaili, who had followed us from Amman in hope of getting work. His name is Ali, not to be confused with Ali Mausar, the postman guide of 1911, who is still with me and will never, I think, leave me. Besides these, I have Salim, another nephew of Muhammad’s, whom I took at first in Fattuh’s Place; he is an admirable servant and a very nice, well-educated man, I like him immensely. And finally, I have Fattuh, the lynch pin of the whole party. I have to-day permission from the Vali to go when I like.

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Four of the sheep merchants left us yesterday hearing that the sheikhs with whom they deal were camped near at hand, for each man deals every year with the same sheikh. If you could see the western sky with the evening star burning in it, you would give thanks–as I do. It was piping hot, and we rode over barren rocky uplands and made our horses go their best pace–so good a pace that in 3 hours instead of the promised 4 we got to the great church that I had heard of. All round it the rock is honeycombed with the rooms and halls of a monastery with columbaria and churches. MY heart sank when I saw it for I knew I could do nothing at it under 3 hours and it was the hottest day we have had.

I don’t think you get it out of books a bit, though books help to strengthen it, but you certainly get it out of seeing more and more, even of quite different things. The more you see, the more everything falls into a kind of rough an ready perspective, and when you come to a new thing, you haven’t so much difficulty in placing it and fitting it into the rest. I’m awfully glad you love the beginnings of things–so do I, most thoroughly, and unless one does, I don’t believe one can get as much pleasure out of the ends. The early Florentines are too wonderful–there’s such a feeling for beauty even in the woodenest of them, and they are so earnest, bless them, that they carry one with them–well, very nearly up into Paradise and down into Hell! I’ve only seen the negatives, but they are lovely and you shall have a Monthly Cousin article, illustrated, on Petra.

Meet the Crinkle Cookie Inspired by a Cantonese Black Sesame Dessert Soup

I must tell you what will happen to the destitute of the Beni Hassan. They will go round to the rest of the tribe and one will give a camel, and one will give a few sheep and one some pieces of goat’s hair for the tent, until each man has enough to support existence–they don’t need much. It seems a most unreasonable industry this of the ghazu–about as profitable as stealing each other’s washing, but that’s how they live. Meantime Gabtan is rather anxious, for the Daja and the Hassanieh are close friends, and the Sakhr are the foes Of both, and this latest exploit may lead to a general commotion.

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